How to Check ABS Sensors
By braniac
When you are driving and you get the "Check Brakes" light you may get worried. It may be a big problem or a simple ABS sensor problem. You should fist check ABS sensors yourself before paying a mechanic hundreds to do a simple car maintenance job. Keeping your anti-lock brakes in great shape is crucial for your safety.
Instructions
1.
o 1 Read your car manual to find the location of your ABS (Anti-lock Braking System) sensor. On most vehicles it is located above the brake pad. The ABS sensor is a small cylinder with a cord protruding out the top of it. Remove your wheel to get at it easily.
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o 2 Pull the cord from the top of the ABS sensor and then unscrew the ABS sensor from the brake housing.
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o 3 Wipe the abs sensor off with a rag dampened with brake cleaner fluid.
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o 4 Read in your car manual for the ohm reading your ABS sensor should have. Most are 50 ohms. Place the black and red tester leads from the ohm meter on the separate contact points in the ABS sensor plug (where the cord was connected on top of the ABS sensor). It doesn't matter which color lead from the ohm tester you have on each contact point in the ABS sensor plug area. The meter should read near the required ohms (50 ohms) for your vehicle, but if it doesn't you will need to replace the ABS sensor with a new one.
How to Use an Ohm Meter to Check the ABS Sensor
By Carlos Mano, eHow Contributor
It is easy to tell if your ABS sensor is bad.
When the brake light comes on, most people go to the mechanic. Nobody wants the brakes to fail. If you have ABS, the fault is often the ABS sensor. This sensor tells the braking system how fast the wheels are spinning--and the braking system uses this information to come between you and the brakes when you are doing something that is going to lock them up. The sensor is easy to find and easy to check, and you can buy one at the auto supply store for a few bucks. With a little effort you might save hundreds of dollars.
Instructions
o 1 Look in your car manual to see what the resistance is on tour Anti-locking Breaking System (ABS) sensor. It is 50 ohms on most cars. If you have ABS on the front wheels only you will be checking the sensors for the front wheels only. If you have ABS on all four wheels you will be doing this for all four wheels. Consulting the manual will tell you which arrangement you have. Unfortunately, you will have to replace the wheel and lower it each time. The brake light does not indicate which sensor is causing the problem. Do not stop checking if you find a bad one--you might as well check them all.
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o 2 Jack up the wheel you are checking and take off the wheel. The ABS sensor is a little canister with a wire coming out of it. Disconnect the wire and unscrew the canister. You can clean it off with a rag with a little brake cleaner fluid.
o
o 3 If you are using a multimeter, you should select the range that will put the needle (for the projected reading) in the middle of the scale. If the range setting is too low, the meter will peg for most readings, and if the range setting is too high the needle will barely move for a correct reading. Zero out the ohmmeter. This means holding the meter leads firmly together with one hand and turning the zero adjust knob until the meter reads exactly zero. Now put the leads on the pins of the ABS sensor and read the resistance. It should be very close (within 10 percent) to the value given in the manual--if not, it is bad and should be replaced.
How To Clean Your ABS Wheel Sensor
By Matthew Wright, About.com Guide
Getting Ready For an ABS Sensor Clean Up
If your ABS sensor looks like this, you might have problems.
photo by Wild Out White GSR
There are many things that can cause your ABS light to come on. Some are serious, so you should never just ignore the light. But there are times when the light comes on, but can be met with a simple solution. For instance, a dirty ABS wheel sensor can cause the system to trigger the ABS light during your ABS computer's self evaluation cycle. You'll be shocked when you see how much road gunk can accumulate on this very important sensor. This sensor is also used in some traction control systems, so if you've got a traction control, or anti-skid warning illuminated you might find that cleaning the ABS sensors will remedy this, as well.
Even if your ABS light hasn't made an appearance, it's a good idea to clean the sensors. A good time to do it would be during brake pad replacement when you have the wheels off anyway. At this point it's a 10-minute job rather than an hour or two.
What You'll Need:
- Ratchet wrench and sockets
- Ratchet extension
- Jack
- Jack stands
- A strong rag
Get your stuff together and you're ready to start. A clean work area really helps you stay organized, keep track of tools and parts, and avoid making costly mistakes. Remember, it's never safe to work on a car supported by a jack, use jack stands!
Removing the Wheel and Safely Supporting the Vehicle
Be sure to properly support your vehicle on jack stands.
photo by Matt Wright, 2007
Begin by loosening your wheel lugs (always do this while the car is still on the ground - for safety and for better leverage), then jack the front of the car up and rest it securely on jack stands. Always be sure your car is supported securely. A wobbly car or truck can lead to a serious injury or damage to the vehicle. There's no reason to take chances when you're working underneath an elevated car. With the car safe, remove the wheel lugs and take the front wheels off.
With the wheel off, turn the steering wheel all the way in, opposite the side your working on. For example if you're working on the passenger side, turn the wheel all the way toward the driver's side. This will give you easier access to the ABS parts both visually and in terms of your reach.
Remove the Wheel Sensor
Remove the bolts securing the ABS sensor, then free the sensor.
photo by Wild Out White GSR
Locate the ABS wheel sensor. Remove the bolts that attach it to the rest of the suspension. You may also need to remove a few bolts that attach the wiring to the car's frame or suspension, to pull the sensor away from the vehicle for cleaning. Follow the line and/or wiring harness to see if there are more bolts. Remember not to force it or pull too hard. Then along the line there's another two 10mm bolts that need to be removed, just follow the ABS sensor line to get at them. The initial bolts on this application are pictured below. Different vehicles are set up differently, but the idea is the same in most cases. The important thing to remember is never force anything to move. If you're removed all of the bolts and other attachment stuff you should be able to pull the sensor away with no effort at all.
Cleaning the ABS Sensor
Carefully clean the ABS sensor.
photo by Wild Out White GSR
With the sensor free, take your rag and wipe the sensor until its clean. I prefer not to use any chemicals on the sensor to avoid potential problems. If you need to, use mild soapy solution and rinse well. The ABS sensors are precision instruments in a crude environment. They're tough enough to hang off the brakes of a very fast moving vehicle, but one good knock and they could be damaged beyond repair. Keep this in mind when working with these sensors, They're tough, but a little car taken while you service the antilock braking system along the way can save you from another costly repair added to the brake service.
To finish up the job, reinstall the sensor in the same manner it was removed, taking care to install the sensors in exactly the same manner as they were removed. Don't skip the step of reattaching the line or wiring to those mounting points. They may seem like they don't matter, but it can get very expensive if you make a bad decision.
*Don't be discouraged if your ABS light doesn't turn off right away. It may take up to a few days for the system to reanalyze itself and reset fully.
ABS Speed Sensor Maintenance
A clean sensor is a happy sensor
Phil Coconis / autoMedia.com
One of the most common omissions in maintaining a modern Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) is checking out the speed sensors. These sensors are often located at each wheel hub/rotor on four-wheel disc systems. Alternatively, on rear-drum applications, you'll usually find them mounted on the differential housing. Whatever their location, they supply information regarding wheel speed to the ABS computer. Under braking, if wheel speeds are not equal, indicating wheel lockup, the computer modulates the anti-lock feature until the speeds are equal again.
Sensor Types
The sensors function on the principle of magnetic induction. In this case, the sensor consists of a magnet mounted in close proximity to a notched "reference ring" that spins at wheel speed causing a "sine wave" (a low-voltage rhythmic pulse) to be generated by the magnet. The computer reads this signal as wheel speed. There are basically two types of sensor/ring designs: "exposed" and "concealed." In the exposed design, the sensor and ring are, not surprisingly, exposed to the elements, most notably metallic brake dust. That's important because, as explained, the sensors are magnets that attract metallic media, and the reference rings have ridges or slots, which can become clogged with this same road grime.
Of course, at some point this process will affect the operation of the system and cause the ABS Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) to illuminate, indicating that the anti-lock feature is not armed—not desirable and not as safe either. In contrast, on the concealed design, buildup of road grime is not really an issue, so it will probably not need to be cleaned and serviced nearly as regularly as the exposed design. Even though the concealed type is subject to less contamination, it wouldn't hurt to inspect it when servicing wheel bearings or during differential fluid service (depending on the location of the sensor). Any accumulation of debris is serious, as it would likely indicate a deterioration of some normally lubricated component.
How do you determine which type of sensor is on your vehicle? If possible, remove the brake rotor and inspect the backside (the one closest to the center of the vehicle), and the backing plate/splash shield assembly (attached to the steering knuckle). If the sensor is mounted somewhere on the backing plate/splash shield, and the reference ring is visibly outside of the wheel bearing grease seal, you have the exposed type.
On FWD/4WD captive-rotor models, you must remove the sensor retaining bolt from the backside of the backing plate/splash shield. Then remove the sensor from it's mounting bore, and inspect for media presence on the sensor tip, and with a flashlight through the mounting bore to view the reference ring. Exposed sensor/ring types should be serviced at every brake pad replacement at the minimum, or every 30,000 miles. The concealed type would not need regular inspection, except when servicing an adjacent component, as noted above.
Cleaning
For cleaning, once you've removed the rotor (or sensor), you're already half of the way there. Simply wipe off the grime with a degreaser-spritzed shop towel. Do not, under any circumstances, attempt to blow the debris off with compressed air! Static voltage can be generated, and then conducted to the ABS computer, which can damage it. Of course, you could disconnect the sensor to prevent this from happening, but why complicate things?
To clean the reference ring, use a small non-metallic brush and a squirt of degreaser. Make sure to go all of the way around the ring, and be thorough about it. If the rotor has been removed from the vehicle, its okay to carefully blow-dry the ring with compressed air. The ring does not need to be hospital-clean, just free of major debris and metal media, especially in the "troughs."
On captive rotor systems, cleaning the sensor is the same, but you'll have to work through its mounting hole to clean the reference ring, which will take some patience and, of course, a brush small enough to fit easily through the hole. It's also okay to use carefully applied compressed air to the ring as you turn the rotor/hub assembly. Now you can finish the rest of your vehicle's brake work, with the comfort of knowing that you've attended to a very important—and often neglected—aspect of your braking system.
From: -::eSpAcE9808::- <rienacom@yahoo.com.sg>
To: zzxautomobil <automobil@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 5, 2013 6:56 PM
Subject: Re: www.groupautomobil.blogspot.com - Lampu Jalan licin duk menyala
From: Mohd Syaril Matsali <syaril.matsali@my.panasonic.com>
To: automobil@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 5, 2013 2:14 PM
Subject: Re: www.groupautomobil.blogspot.com - Lampu Jalan licin duk menyala
pomen cakap ABS sensor dh rosak, benda tu boleh ditukar... tapi brp harga x pasti, tapi xde effect pape la time driving...
klu salah betulkan la ye....
From: fuzzyinn@yahoo.com
To: "Automobil" <automobil@yahoogroups.com>,
Date: 03/05/2013 01:54 PM
Subject: www.groupautomobil.blogspot.com - Lampu Jalan licin duk menyala
Sent by: automobil@yahoogroups.com
Apa yg menyebabkan lampu yg ada gambar yg menunjukkan gambar kereta dijalan yg licin itu duk menyala .. Kereta perdana v6 ..Bukan selalu nyala ..kadang2 padam kadang2 duk nyala ..ikut sedap rasa dia jer ..siapa yg pernah ada pengalaman ..
Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless device via Vodafone-Celcom Mobile.
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